Good afternoon (evening/night optional).
Today I’ll tell you about how you can make virtual reality glasses with your own hands, no phones(Traffic!):
PREFACE
For now NO official standard for VR glasses/mask and the like. About Oculus, HTC, Samsung, Sony, etc. there is no point in talking and comparing. These are just devices with different functionality +/-, some gadgets. There is no point in arguing about what VR is, everyone sees it differently.
I’ve been wanting to play with this kind of thing for a long time, but phone glasses don’t appeal to me, they’re inconvenient, heavy and there are few applications, poor synchronization with the PC, phone battery, radio delay.
In the process of working on my experiment, 2 nuances that were important to me were highlighted:
1. Head tracking.
2. Display instead of a phone.
Based on these nuances, I started building the unit.
I’ll say right away that the thing is in itself and does not pretend to be of quality; anyone can repeat the production of this helmet based on the instructions received.
COMPONENTS
For the glasses I needed the following components:
MATERIAL PART
The first thing is a warning:
All responsibility, namely independent penetration into the body of the finished product with subsequent violation of its integrity and performance, lies with the person who committed this action.
Frame:
The body will have to be assembled separately for the matrix, due to the fact that the matrix is quite voluminous and a different focusing distance is required. Lens replacement required. The part that will be applied to the head and nose will be taken from this body.
Controller:
The main task is to synchronize the controller with the matrix, I knew that the controller and matrix would work, but whether I would get the required resolution is another question.
I’ll give you an excerpt from the datasheet: 
My display has an aspect ratio of 16:9 and a resolution that falls within the range of 1920x1440.
The problem is that the controller has the wrong resolution and needs to be flashed.
Initially, when connecting the display, instead of a picture, I received a set of stripes. (I even thought that the display itself was covered).
But after a while (when connected to a computer) it became clear that the display was displaying something, but it was clear that it had a problem with synchronization and resolution.
When installing the firmware, I went through more than a dozen and settled on this version:
Now, when connected to a computer, the display displays information that an HDMI connector is connected and offers a resolution of 1024x600. In this case, the display actively tries to receive a signal from VGA, and the message “Connect the VGA cable” appears.
I had to scratch my head again. This controller is a direct analogue of boards with a large number of connectors, for example:
This means you need to wire up buttons to your controller so that you can customize the display and switch operating modes. I have attached a diagram for the connectors, the buttons hang on the 53rd leg of the chip:
Just in case, I am attaching a diagram of the RTD2660 chip:
After flashing the firmware and switching the controller to HDMI mode. The display began to start under WIndows 7, my surprise was great when, in addition to the native, native resolution of 1024x600, I was able to set the resolution to 720p and 1080p. At 720p it works great without being distorted, but at 1080p the fonts are no longer readable, but it holds it just the same, surprise, running games at 720p is more fun than at 1024x600 (not all games support low resolutions).
Matrix:
I was already playing with glasses on my phone, the resolution was 960X540. I launched Half-life 2, Portal, but I didn’t like the fact that it was a phone and the fact that I couldn’t look around the space with my head, I rotated the mouse + delays via Wi-Fi, they just infuriated me and didn’t let me play. In general, the pixels are visible, but I still liked it.
A 7-inch 1024x600 matrix, part number 7300130906 E231732 NETRON-YFP08, was removed from the spare parts box. Based on the available matrix resolution, we can conclude that for each eye the resolution will be 512x600, which is slightly more than the phone screen resolution and, most importantly, there will be no delays.
The matrix connector has 50 pins and is fully compatible with the display controller. 
To achieve maximum contrast and image richness, you will have to remove the matte film from the matrix. Since the product will be closed, there is no risk of any glare.
Finalization of the matrix is carried out in 7 stages:
1. disassemble the matrix along the edge of the frame;
2. place the module on the lining (here you can tape the edges of the module to the lining so that water does not damage the part);
3. Place a damp cloth on top of the display, preferably the size of a matte film;
4. Gently soak the napkin with a small amount of water at about 25 degrees;
5. wait about 2 - 3 hours, it all depends on the quality of the coating. (the glue of matte films is sensitive to water);
6. carefully pry up the edge and slowly, without jerking, remove the matte layer;
7. check.
If you want to collect glasses on a 2K display, then I will give you a link:
For this price on Ali you can buy a ready-made device with FullHD ->
Therefore, I did not spend money on the concept and decided to use what I had for testing.
Arduino and gyroscope:
The most important part of getting the effect of presence in a game, application or video is the ability to control your head, which means we will write head tracking.
Excerpt from the official source for Arduino Leonardo:
Unlike all previous boards, the ATmega32u4 has built-in support for a USB connection, this allows you to set how Leonardo will be visible when connected to a computer, it can be a keyboard, mouse, virtual serial / COM port.
This is exactly what I need.
The simplest and most common gyroscope was chosen - GY521, which has an accelerometer on board:
1. Accelerometer ranges: ±2, ±4, ±8, ±16g
2. Gyroscope ranges: ± 250, 500, 1000, 2000 °/s
3. Voltage range: 3.3V - 5V (the module include a low drop-out voltage regulator)
Gyroscope connection:
#include
Based on the sketch, we can conclude that head tracking is essentially a gyro-mouse.
CONCEPT
It all came down to the division into stages:
1. trying on head tracking;
2. writing tracker firmware;
3. ordering the required controller for the display;
4. setting up and launching the display with the controller;
5. fitting and general assembly.
This is what debugging a head tracker with a gyroscope looked like:
Video of the head tracker in action:
Running the display with a controller:
To run the display, I need the Tridef 3D program, which allows you to run games and applications with Side by Side images, which I used as a test.
The reason for use is quite clear, these glasses will not be recognized as Oculus DK1/DK2 glasses and in order for the device to be recognized as VR glasses of at least the first revisions of the oculus, it must be changed completely software display controller, which I can’t afford yet, it will also require either partial prototyping, or creating again a concept board based on the kind of gyroscopes that are used in oculuses -
But due to the fact that I decided not to spend a lot on this project and I’m not going to make money from it either, we’ll leave that for other people. (I know who makes sets with oculus firmware based on similar glasses for smart phones, but I won’t advertise them, the post is not about them)
Frame
Having played enough with a standard body, I decided to try the matrix on it and was very disappointed, the matrix turned out to be too large for the focal length, I saw everything but did not see the whole picture, it did not add up into one.
The assembly of the body began from scratch.
Having broken off all the protruding parts, as well as the fastening of the head strap, I got the following set:
Actually, like many prototypes, I chose corrugated cardboard as the most flexible, easily accessible material:
Testing
During testing, the glasses performed extremely well; playing at 720p resolution is a pleasure. The gyroscope works great and follows head movements, the mouse does not float along the coordinates, I passed the cable through my head behind me, 3 meters was more than enough.
Nuance:
The glasses stick out quite a lot, although the mass is not very large, you have to get used to turning your head.
Disadvantages of such a system:
1. You need a smaller matrix in order to reduce the length of the body.
2. You need high-quality lenses (for mine, I took them from magnifying glasses at the nearest print shop).
In general, for myself, as an undemanding person, it will do.
Once I’ve played enough with it all, I’ll make an 8D projector from this matrix and controller. (Keep an eye on the reviews)
Thank you for your attention and patience, I will be happy to answer your comments.
Many of you have heard about Google Cardboard! A long time ago we wrote on our website about the release of this device! Now every owner of an Android smartphone can buy it and download a bunch of games and applications under Google Cardboard on the official website!
Buying it is of course all great. But what about making a virtual reality headset yourself? And so, we will now tell you how to do this.
1. Take everything you need
What do we need to do this miracle? So, you need to get: cardboard (you can buy it at a creative supply store), lenses, magnets, as well as Velcro and elastic.
2. Download the drawings
In the future, if our readers want and are active in the comments, we will write instructions in Russian.
When you make your virtual reality glasses, don't forget that you can get creative with your ideas. Decorate your Cardboard beautifully. The image above shows a very nice Google Cardboard called POWIS VIEWR. This model will cost you $30. Now it’s about 2,000 rubles. It may not seem expensive, but making something original yourself is much cooler!
If you are very pleased with these gadgets and you have extra money, then you can get a gadget like Jump. What is it? This is a peculiar design of 16 chambers, it all looks like a ring.
Cardboard virtual reality glasses immerse a person in completely new sensations. With them you can ride a roller coaster or feel like the main character in your favorite horror movie without leaving the couch. To do this, you just need to figure out how they are designed and how to use them.
To preserve the cardboard case, Google Cardboard is shipped folded only. Therefore, if virtual reality glasses were bought as a gift, then the birthday person will be pleased if his gift is collected in advance. This is done simply and excitingly, reminiscent of a construction set or a puzzle. The main thing is to comply step by step instructions and everything will work out. For complete convenience, we recommend that you lay out the body and additional parts as shown in the diagram below.
Step 1.
Insert the eyepiece with lenses (part 2) into section 1.1. as shown in the picture. In this case, the front side of the eyepiece should be directed towards you.
Step 2.
Carefully fold the body (part 1), alternately bending it along the lines from right to left, i.e. from paragraph 1.4. to 1.5. As a result, the eyepiece will be closed on 4 sides. In this case, it will be possible to align its holes with the protruding parts of the eyepiece.
Step 3.
To fix the resulting structure, we need to secure two sections. To do this, it is necessary to remove the protective layer from the self-adhesive strip 1.6. and fasten sections 1.4 with it. and 1.5. For strength, all protruding parts should be fitted to the corresponding holes. If it seemed to you that the band is 1.6. If it doesn't hold everything as securely as we would like, you can use tape.
Step 4.
Install the partition (part 3) into the holes of the eyepiece and section 1.1. After this, insert the magnetic ring (part 5) into foramen ovale, located in section 1.5. Place your smartphone on the border between section 1.1. and 1.7. to assess the suitability of its size with the glasses. If the smartphone turns out to be smaller, then for comfortable use of the gadget, install an additional step (detail 4.). Now all that remains is to tighten the assembled body with a harness (part 6) to completely secure the structure.
Step 5.
Attach a special elastic band to hold the glasses if you purchased them in one set with Google Cardboard.
Step 6.
A smartphone with an Android or iOS operating system is the “heart” of Google Cardboard. Paste it into section 1.7. Launch the desired application and secure the cover with the Velcro fasteners. Now you can ride a roller coaster;)
Search for applications.
There are more and more interesting applications - games, virtual excursions, videos, etc. To find applications compatible with your smartphone, use the following keywords:
To search for videos on YouTube, use two tags - “stereo pair” or “sbs”.
A few tips.
Google Cardboard - assembly instructions
When making a cardboard yourself, you can also attach an NFC chip to the glasses to ensure more reliable pairing with your smartphone. Smartphones with a built-in magnetometer have the ability to respond to changes magnetic field. The application, in turn, analyzes data from the smartphone camera, accelerometer, magnetometer and simulates the effect of virtual reality in Cardboard. Google Play has created a whole section of cardboard applications from Google and third-party developers.
You can download the official Cardboard application for Android smartphones by scanning the QR code below or by following the link to the application page on Google Play.
But in reality, if in reality you want to assemble a cardboard with your own hands, you will be a little disappointed in its availability. For example, the only materials at hand can be cardboard and a pattern drawing, but the main components such as: 2 convex lenses (with a focal length of ~45 mm), 2 magnets (neodymium ring and ceramic disk) and an NFC chip are unlikely to be lie on your nightstand. Therefore, if you don’t want to bother too much, it’s better to buy a ready-made Google Cardboard and try out the available virtual reality.
At the latest I/O conference, Google showed off its version of cardboard virtual reality glasses. In principle, schemes for such glasses have been circulating on the Internet for a long time (for example, FOV2GO). However, the scheme of the guys from Google turned out to be simpler than their analogues, and they also added a chip with a magnet that works as an external analog button. In this post, I will share my experience in assembling virtual reality glasses based on a smartphone: Google Cardboard from cardboard, OpenDive from plastic and glasses cut on a laser cutter from acrylic.
Final price of materials: 400-1000 rubles depending on the lenses.
However, after installing the application, I discovered that my button did not work in this form. To activate the click, I had to take the magnet in my hand and move it directly along the left side of the phone, however, even this way it only works once in a while. A sign that you are doing everything right is that when you touch, there should be a feeling of a magnetic field that slightly pushes the magnet away from the phone.
Perhaps the reason is that I took too weak a magnet. Perhaps it's because my model (Galaxy Nexus) is not declared supported by Google. Nevertheless, the demos work, the button is pressed, hurray!
I ordered a print from the 3D Printing Laboratory, it cost about 3000 rubles.
All materials from Cardboard are relevant for these glasses, so the final price tag reaches almost 3,500 rubles.
We insert the lenses, glue the foam, and use regular office rubber bands to secure the phone. You can also cover the entire surface outside the lenses with foam rubber, then the light from your smartphone will not disturb you. Larger lenses can also be inserted into these glasses.
Another option: insert lenses from a Soviet stereoscope. To do this, you will have to slightly modify the mount, replacing the round holes with rectangular ones. The option with a stereoscope is quite convenient, but it has a disadvantage - the working area is smaller, the image is cropped at the top and bottom.
In addition to lenses, rubber bands and foam rubber, for assembly you will need about 20 screws with 3-4mm nuts (the author of the model suggests using 4mm, but they were difficult for me to fit in and I took 3mm).
Oddly enough, the final version turned out to be even better than the 3D printer. Firstly, the glasses are lighter and more compact. Secondly, the material is smooth and more pleasant to the touch. The downside is that acrylic is a fairly fragile material, and such glasses may not survive a fall.
